The overall design of this was based on the kind of flimsy-looking bed that’s usually made from barely-smoothed pine, hence the rather crude appearance, and given its simplicity there was no pre-planning involved.
To start with, cut a piece of card about 1mm thick, to the dimensions that will be the interior size of the bed, as everything is built outwards.
Then decide what shape the legs are going to be, as they are best if the tops have a square section, though they can be completely cylindrical as the side panels are held in place later and don’t require the legs to anchor them. In this case, a pair of symmetrical banister railings were used, which offered a few variations depending on how they were cut. The legs were then tinted after cutting to length just to add a variation of colour.
Now simply glue the legs into each corner of the card.
As the first stage of strengthening the frame, attach small square or rectangular sections to the card, joining the legs together.
Originally the sides were going to be plain thin sheets with a rectangular section, but they look so boring a symmetrical moulding was chosen instead, and as with all my work the corners were mitred rather than left square.
Don’t glue on the sides just yet! First of all, the card has to be raised by an amount equal to the depth the mattress will be sunk below the sides, and it has to be lifted equally all around. Now the sides can be put into place, having been cut to length.
Turned upright, the result looked unfortunately like a snooker table, so a second and narrower row of moulding was placed beneath the first, to hide the legs a bit more. This may not be necessary depending on your personal design choice, and how short or long the legs are (which obviously lowers or raises the bed respectively).
The corner edges were then filled in where required and sanded but otherwise left bare.
Now all that needs to be done is turn the bed right-side up and hide the ugly join of the card with the insides. If using wood, either a small quadrant or narrow triangular section could be used, into which the mattress will sit, or in this case cut-offs of the narrow moulding. Alternatively, a thin ribbon or seat-cord could be used.
A simple headboard was made from scraps of the main side moulding and thin square sections, held in place by hooking under the rear panel.